When you think of the South of France, turquoise waters, rocky coastline, beach clubs, and picturesque medieval towns probably are the first images that spring to mind. Many travellers, however, often miss out on checking out one of the treasures that stretches throughout all of France’s Mediterranean regions: the mountains! Whether your interest is art (see: St-Paul-de-Vence), history (see: Èze or Tourettes-sur-Loup), or hiking (see: Gourdon), there is so much more to be explored just by venturing deeper into the beautiful mountains that line the bottom of the country. If you’re vegetarian or vegan, the South of France—or much of France for that matter—unfortunately isn’t known for its affinity for providing plant-based options. So we set out to find a stay that is setting itself apart!
Just outside the stunning, 1200-year-old village of Bargemon lies Abriecosy, an eco and vegan BnB that encourages its guests to slow down, spend some time in nature, and enjoy delicious food all the while. We first arrived at Abriecosy late one evening, and were greeted by owner Geert, who showed us to our cabin and promised us a tour of the property in the morning.
Located in the woods and down a rocky (but drivable) path from the main road, the first things we noticed upon arrival was how peaceful it was and how much cooler it was here, compared to the hot and humid Nice we had just left behind. As we fell asleep with our screened window open, we listened to the sounds of bushes rustling as deer ventured onto the property and the hoots of owls in the distance.
The next morning, we awoke to the sounds of birds chirping, and the leaves of old-growth trees swaying in the breeze. Now able to better see our room in the daylight, we could observe the beautiful hand-carved, wooden tree fixed above our bed, adorned with fairy lights for a cozy atmosphere; the handmade soaps in the bathroom (which we later learned Geert’s partner Vanessa makes in-house); and…a recipe for how to make paint on the walls? We had to ask Geert more about this at breakfast.
Walking up to the main house, we were met with a nutritious breakfast, prepared by Geert this morning and eaten alongside him at his dining table. A buffet of fruit, gluten-free pancakes, fresh bread, spreads, and juices were the perfect start to our day. Originally from Belgium, Geert found the property where Abriecosy now is over eight years ago, when he was searching for a slower pace of life and a place where he could reconnect with nature. One of the coolest things about this property is that it’s first mentioned in Napoleon Bonaparte’s Cadastre, the comprehensive land registry he ordered back in 1807, which gave Geert a glimpse into just how long this patch of land has been occupied. A previous owner built more modern buildings on-site in the 1970s, but the land was left in a state of disrepair until Geert found the place nearly a decade ago.
Now, Abriecosy exists in-line with Geert’s own values of co-existence with nature and veganism, thoughtfully utilising what the land provides, and giving back as much as possible too. In addition to only serving (delicious) plant-based meals, the property encourages local wildlife to roam freely—a rarity in an area where electric fences are common to keep wild boar and deer away. The formerly-chlorine swimming pool has been transformed into a natural bathing pond too, using native plants as a natural filter and an energy-efficient air pump for circulation. And the paint on our room’s walls? Handmade using non-toxic, natural materials and ancient techniques used to coat the interior walls and outdoor shutters, doors, and trim of the main house.
If you’re an outdoorsy person, the surrounding region and nearby towns have plenty to do too! Visiting with Ciara’s mom for her birthday, we decided to get a little adventurous and try something we’ve never done before: canyoning! The South of France is speckled with stunning gorges, steep valleys carved by rivers, streams, and glacial meltwater. In these gorges, there are various companies that offer canyoning tours where you can hike, climb, slide, abseil, and swim through the by-product of millions of years of the movement of nature—and it’s SO worth it! We booked our tour of the Clue du Haut-Jabron with L’Olimpide through Manawa, and we highly recommend the experience to any adventure-seekers looking to try something new.
After a day of hiking, climbing, and swimming, nothing felt better than a refreshing shower, a nap, and a delightful dinner with Geert and Vanessa back at Abriecosy. Lovers of flavour and unafraid of experimenting in the kitchen, they made us a delicious vegetable maki with satay sauce as a starter; a bean chili with fresh guacamole and tortilla chips as a main course; and a decadent brownie with orange and lavender ice cream (made from scratch by self-professed ice cream aficionado, Geert) for dessert.
As the sun set behind the mountains, we talked, laughed, and enjoyed each other’s company beneath the sprawling branches of an old oak tree, reminding us that the best part of travelling and discovering new places is the people you meet along the way. Travelling with the planet in mind is not difficult, all it takes is a little openness, an adventurous spirit, and looking beyond the beaten path.
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